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Monthly Archives: May 2019

Our ship has come in.

Yesterday was a big day. After eight weeks in transit, our shipment arrived by truck in Le Grand-Pressigny. As we watched all of our things being unloaded from the container, I realized how big a milestone it was.

In the span of just one year, we visited France a few times, decided to move, bought a house, started wading through the bureaucracy to get French visas, sold our California house and cars and many of our things, and took a one-way flight to France. Once here, we found an architect and builder and began the waiting process for the approval for the renovations on the exterior of our house, which we still have not received. In a way, our possessions being taken out of that shipping container marked the start of our life here. We can now blend our California life with our French life, and the carefully curated inventory of possessions will be adapted for use here. Well, some things weren’t so carefully curated. In our exhaustion, we got to the point in our packing-up process when we said, “let’s just take that thing and see how it goes,” rather than having to deal with getting rid of it. So, our giant Weber barbecue now sits in the yard of our rental house, waiting for us to figure out how to adapt the gas line to work with the French tanks. And our silly fake Christmas tree with remote-controlled lights will be put up to mark our first French Christmas. Tonight, we will happily be sleeping in our own big bed because we found the box containing our sheets. (We like our big California bed so we decided to bring our beds and enough sets of sheets to last us for years.)

It all went very well, with only one little casualty during transit, a small plastic bin of papers was crushed. Of course, almost everything is yet to be unpacked and examined, but none of the boxes showed any damage. The unloading crew was young, friendly and efficient, and we hope to be able to use the same guys in a year to move our things into the house when it’s ready. We also had two French-speaking friends there to help with the translations and that is always a good idea.

And work continues at the house.

Mission demolition.

Oh boy, it’s all happening now, sledgehammering and chipping and lots of noise and dust and piles of debris. I love every bit of it, as it’s the sound of the bones of this great house being revealed. I can imagine the stone walls taking in a big gulp of fresh air as the decades of plaster and gunk are being chipped away. When you have stone walls that are 19″ thick, there is no place for electrical or plumbing, so back when electrical and plumbing were added to an old house, a thin wall was built in front of the stone that served as a channel for the necessary wiring and such. I was surprised to learn that more recently, thick styrofoam was used as insulation in these walls. All these “false walls” are now being taken out, and some will be replaced. I’m sure there is a technical word for these little walls, but I’m new here in France demo-land.

That’s the update for now. Things keep moving on and it’s fun to pop in every day and see what has changed. I will post more soon.

The befores.

I walked through the house recently to get “before” pictures from every corner in every room, imagining that someday, the “afters” will be worthy of Architectural Digest. Hah. We’ve been in France for six weeks now and it seemed that the construction would never start. But our builder wanted some time to finish up on all his other projects so he could fully devote his time to our big deal.

The time has finally come, and things started happening yesterday. Our builder kindly let me make the ceremonial first swing (on a carefully chosen little wall that was only 2” thick).

So, here is what everybody has been asking to see. Here are photos of the house before the construction starts. Keep in mind that ALL surfaces will be redone in some way: walls, floors, ceilings, doors, windows, roof (and, of course, all new electrical, plumbing, heating). But being “redone” doesn’t mean that we are taking away the charm of the 300+ yr old house. Back then, it was common to paint over oak woodwork and paint or even cover up the ceiling beams. We hope to restore as much of the original wood as possible, blasting the paint off the beams, installing appropriate hardwood flooring to replace the hodgepodge of tile, and stripping and refinishing those painted doors and the stairway.

What I can’t show you is what doesn’t exist yet. We plan to build a perpendicular addition onto the house, which will become our master bedroom and bath. Fortunately, there is plenty of room for it as the backyard is massive.

So, that’s it. Now that work has begun, things are changing quickly. I will try to post often as changes are made.

Jumping in.

Le Grand-Pressigny may be a village of only about 950 people, but it’s a busy place. Last weekend was the “La Nature dans tous ses états,” which translates to “Nature in all its states,” but let’s just call it Nature Day.

As we’d been eager to get involved in the community as much as possible, we were happy to be asked to help out with this event. On Saturday, we were part of the team that set up the booths and tents in the yard of the Gothic-style church in the village square. We considered working in the booth selling drinks, but we’re still not so quick with counting Euro coins and didn’t want to inflict our ignorance on the patrons.

Now we just need people.

The weather cooperated on Nature Day, and everyone seemed pleased with the attendance. We enjoyed catching up with our new friends and neighbors as we strolled through the assortment of crafts and plants for sale (three tomato plants went home with us). In a side tent, there were lectures on various subjects such as area wildlife, and a local man presented an interesting slide show of his travels to Antarctica. At mid-day, it was time for a wine reception and lunch from a man in a wooden caravan selling “fouées,” delicious little pita breads freshly-cooked in a clay oven, with savory or sweet fillings.

I was fascinated by the creative use of common objects.
These are old gas tanks made into electric lanterns.
A group of senior knitters provided some slightly scary decorations for the event.
Lunchtime on Nature Day

One woman had some interesting medallion necklaces for sale. When she said something about them in French to me, I apologized and asked if she spoke any English. She smiled and said “George Clooney!” and pointed to the necklaces. It took me a minute, but I realized she was saying that the necklaces were made from recycled Nespresso coffee pods. You would never know it by looking at them – they were quite pretty. (Sorry, I’m kicking myself now for not getting a photo of them.)

Things I learned this week:

  • The word “pet” in French is “animal de compagnie.” Isn’t that perfect?
  • Northern France has the distinction of having towns with the longest name (Saint-Remy-en-Bouzemont-Saint-Genest-et-Isson) and the shortest name (Y).
  • The entire country of France would fit in the state of Texas.

Update on renovations:

  • Work is scheduled to begin on May 20th. Hallelujah!

Getting to know our new home.

In between opening accounts, getting established with the local doctor and filling prescriptions, joining the gym in a nearby village, navigating the country roads to explore the gorgeous area surrounding us, and meeting the locals, we have been getting to know the village that is now our home.

This beautiful spot is just around the corner from our rental house.

Château du Grand-Pressigny and its Museum of Prehistory.
Our house is on the right edge of this photo. Can you find it?

The Château du Grand-Pressigny overlooks the village and houses the Museum of Prehistory. The first château on the site was built in the 12th century and completed in the 15th and 16th centuries. The museum was built within the remains of the château and contains an extensive exhibition that emphasizes what made the region so unique during the prehistoric period, the famous Le Grand-Pressigny flint.


The new and the old were merged in the construction of the museum.
A wonderful exposed staircase is part of the château ruins.

Bob’s favorite spot in the village. He often walks down there first thing in the morning for fresh bread.

We stopped by the tourist office to pick up some maps and hiking info and happened to be walking by the pharmacy when they rolled up their metal security doors (they close from 12:15 to 2:30 for lunch). Since we were the only customers in the usually busy place, we took the opportunity to chat with the pharmacist about our medications and their availability in France. She noted what we take, and looked up the medications on her computer. She frowned apologetically and said my migraine medication was a bit expensive — it comes in packages of ten pills for €14. My dumbfounded expression needed an explanation, and I told her the same medication in the US is $65 (€58) for six pills.

Le Grand-Pressigny is a lively and active community and we are eager to become involved. We have joined the Randonées, a group of local folks who seem to easily manage a 12 km (7 mi) hike every Thursday. Bob has already been on several hikes with the group, which can be as many as 30 people, but I have to work up the stamina (and courage) to join them.

This area has many kilometers of roads and paths for hiking and cycling.

We’re anxiously awaiting the arrival of our shipment, and I have been monitoring the movement of the ship carrying our container. Today I received a notice that the ship has left the Panama Canal and is headed for Cartagena, Columbia. It is scheduled to arrive in the port of Le Havre, France, on May 22, then our container will be loaded onto a truck and driven to our wee village. We have made arrangements to use storage units recently built in a former furniture factory just down the street from the house we are renting.

All our worldly possessions are in one of those shipping containers.
Le Grand-Pressigny’s population has increased by two.